Chapultepec: A Castle Above Mexico City

There is something rather lovely about getting a little lost in the greenery of a city as enormous and relentless as Mexico City. Chapultepec Forest offers just that. One minute you are surrounded by traffic and the constant movement of the capital, the next you are wandering beneath a canopy of trees, following paths that seem to lead somewhere and nowhere in particular.

Chapultepec is one of the largest urban parks in the world, and there is plenty to explore. Lakes, fountains, monuments, museums, and long shaded avenues make it somewhere you could happily spend a day. I found myself wandering without much of a plan, which is often the nicest way to discover a place. It is a welcome reminder that even in a city of this scale, there is plenty of breathing room.

Perched high above the forest on a steep hill, Chapultepec Castle is an imposing sight. You certainly know you've arrived when you see it looming above the trees. The walk up is fairly steep, so take your time. The reward is a magnificent building, beautiful grounds, and sweeping views across Mexico City.

A small piece of advice: perhaps you'll be smarter than me and head straight for the main entrance. The park has several entrances, and it is surprisingly easy to find yourself taking a rather longer route than intended.

A castle with quite a history

The castle has had several lives. Originally commissioned in 1785 as a country residence for the Viceroy of New Spain, it later became a military academy, an imperial residence and the home of Mexican presidents.

Its most romantic, if ultimately tragic, chapter belongs to Maximilian of Habsburg and his wife Carlota, who arrived in Mexico in 1864 to rule as emperor and empress. Their Second Mexican Empire lasted just three years. Maximilian was executed in 1867, while Carlota returned to Europe and spent the rest of her life away from Mexico.

Inside the National Museum of History

Today, the castle houses the National Museum of History, and the building itself is every bit as interesting as the collections.

One of the first things to catch your eye is the magnificent staircase. Grand, sweeping, and gloriously painted with murals, it makes quite an entrance. What is it with Mexico and grand staircases?

There seems to be a particular fondness for making an entrance, and you'll find some extraordinary examples around the city, particularly in Centro Histórico. The staircase here is a beauty, but don't miss the one at the Postal Palace either. I've written about some of Centro's architectural treasures here.

The murals are particularly striking, with artists including Juan O'Gorman and David Alfaro Siqueiros depicting defining moments in Mexico's history.

The rooms are equally absorbing. Elaborate imperial interiors, period furniture, portraits, decorative details, and beautiful stained glass fill the space.

The former residential quarters give you a sense of the lives once lived here, while the museum galleries take you through Mexico's much longer and more complicated history, from the Spanish Conquest and colonial era through independence, empire and revolution.

A view worth the climb

The terraces and gardens are another highlight. From up here, the city stretches out in every direction, a seemingly endless expanse of buildings with the mountains beyond. It is quite a perspective on Mexico City, and a lovely place to pause after exploring the museum.

But don't rush away once you've seen the castle. The forest below deserves some time of its own. Wander the shaded paths, find a quiet bench, explore the botanical gardens with their collection of Mexican plants, or make your way down to one of the lakes, where you can watch the little boats drift across the water.

There are fountains, monuments, sculpture, open lawns and plenty of lovely corners to discover. It is a wonderful place to simply wander without an agenda, and a welcome change of pace from the busy streets beyond the park. If you have more time (or the energy for 2 museums in a day, the nearby National Museum of Anthropology makes a wonderful companion visit. Read my dispatch about it here.

You could easily devote the better part of a day to this corner of Mexico City.

Museum website: https://mnh.inah.gob.mx/

A few things to know

• Go early: Queues to enter the castle can get long, particularly later in the morning. An early start is worthwhile.
• Getting there: Check the main entrance and your route to the castle before setting off. The park is enormous.
• The climb: Expect a fairly steep uphill walk. Comfortable shoes are a good idea.
• Allow time: Give yourself at least a couple of hours for the castle and museum, and longer if you want to explore the park.
• Opening days: Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 5 pm. Closed Mondays.